Heavy Training With A Weapon Mounted Light


Cleaning handguns after heavy training can be tedious. Cleaning a weapon mounted light can be even worse.  The above pistol had nearly 3,000 rounds through it in a foolish stunt to see if we could make it break.  The gun got so hot at times that I had to rack the slide on my holster during reloads because I could not touch it with Oakley gloves on.  I do not advocate abusing a modern service weapon in the way we did above at any time.  But, sometimes during product development it is necessary.

But, it got me to thinking when I was cleaning it up.  I could simply detail strip the pistol and throw it in the ultra sonic cleaner.  Cleaning the light presented certain challenges.  I tried a few different things.  I dipped the bezel in the ultra sonic.  I used different cleaners on it, careful to select the ones that wouldn’t damage the glass.  Finally I got it clean but it took some work.  I also ruined the reflector on a TLR-1 in my wisdom of removing the bezel and putting it in the ultra sonic.  (I have a very cool bronze colored reflector now if anyone finds the need for one.)

The above photo seems to be a better solution during heavy training during the daytime when use of the light isn’t required.  You simply wrap a little range tape around the bezel of the light.  It gives you the same presentation and weight of the light without the clean up.  The tape protects the lens, comes off easy, and works with every holster I have tried.

The tape solution is cheap and easy.  Give it a try the next time you head to the range with a pistol and mounted light!



21 thoughts on “Heavy Training With A Weapon Mounted Light

  1. I have found that the tape is a poor solution. I always wind up with a white or blue mess in the bottom of my holster and a dirty X300 lens. I prefer placing a drop of Slip 2000 or other gun oil on the lens before shooting. Obviously, the pistol should be unloaded prior to placing hands near the muzzle. Cleanup is a breeze as the oil prevents the muzzle blast and powder from hardening on the lens.

    • I’ve had excellent luck using Rain-X on weapon mounted lights. Clean up is very easy.

  2. Toothpaste seems to be the best cleaning agent for removal of the carbon built up. Its almost magical.

  3. Try painters blue tape instead.comes off much easier then white masking tape.if you have a light mounted weapon always train with it on day or night,get used to the mechanics of the toggles and switches of your lights durring mag changes and malfunctions.real world training is always best.

  4. I haven’t tried it yet, but I heard a light coat of froglube on the end works well and the build up just wipes off after use.

  5. A standard pencil eraser from a #2 pencil works well to clean the lens also.

  6. I used lip balm on the lens before i shoot. I spread a thin layer on the lens. When im finished i just wipe everything off and reapply the balm.

  7. Blue painters tape over the bezel. Fully wrapping the bezel until it connects to the body keeps all the carbon out for me.

    If I forget to tape it or shoot a ton and it gets filthy I just use carb cleaner on the front lens. Gets it spotless everytime. No damage to my SF X200/300/300U’s, I don’t know about the other manufacturers lights.

  8. Chapstick works well too, put some on the lens before you start shooting. Cleanup is a breeze.

  9. Cutting the finger off a rubber glove and slipping it over the lens works well also

  10. Froglube paste/chapstick/vaseline on the lens and bezel work best. I tried blue painters tape but the muzzle blast and holster work eventually worked it off.

  11. Can’t believe i never thought of the tape! lol… Was getting annoyed cleaning my TLR-1 on my P30 after every range trip. Simple and easy.

  12. This tip came from Chris Costa – apply a dab of grease or lube to the lens. I use silicone grease. Post shooting cleanup is as simple as wiping off the lens and applying fresh grease.

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